I hate the word artisan. In fact, if one more fast-food chain claims that word, I think I’ll scream.
A few months ago, I loved artisan. But that was when I was writing a couple of cheese articles. For one, I interviewed a teacher from the Culinary Institute of America. He explained how a chef could start with fluid milk and end up with sliceable artisan cheese in less than three hours.
The other article (for Sizzle magazine, see “Cheese Culture” article to the right) was specifically about artisan cheese, and I got to the bottom of the meaning of artisan. Here’s a quote:
At its core, experts agree that artisanal cheese is made by hand in small batches by an artisan. Some would add that no machinery is used in the process, but that’s a background issue that should not take the focus off of the art. “Large-scale equipment would never be involved, but some use smaller-scale equipment or machinery, more using technology through temperature control or scales, things like that,” says Jenny Harris executive chef/fromager (cheese expert) for Tria Commissary, Philadelphia.
So you see, I know that there are people whose pride, joy and heritage are wrapped up in hand-crafting cheese—and bread and pasta and beverages…
Too bad, the richness and meaning of artisan are pretty much gone, swept away in about the span of one year, ever since marketers seized the term as an attention-grabbing adjective.
- Domino’s now has a line of artisan pizzas.
- Wendy’s offers an artisan egg sandwich.
- Burger King’s BK Chef’s Choice burger is served on a new “artisanal-style” bun.
- And in the past week, Red Mango announced its new artisan hot chocolate in four flavors.
So, what do consumers think about this? Not much, according to Mintel research. In a survey, consumers were asked to rate their interest level in a list of menu descriptions/preparations. Fresh topped the list, with 89% indicating an interest. Artisan took up the rear, with only 28% interested in it. Why is that? I think it’s because artisan is a craft, not a marketing term. So, I (and most people) don’t like the word—out of context.
What do you think?
Jody
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