SheeFood

Who Wants Meat?

Vegetarian has an unfortunate reputation in some culinary thinking. Chefs and other foodservice operators almost need to step aside from the word and just think in terms of healthful menu items, or flavor-rich items with trendy ingredients, and it’s likely some will just happen to be vegetarian that anyone would love. For example, on the appetizer menu, wouldn’t mushroom caps filled with cheese, panko and herbs be simply amazing?—and oh, vegetarian. Hummus served with nearly anything reasonable is quite vegetarian and “in.”

I was working on an article for Sizzle magazine about Vegetarian cuisine (see “Beyond the Veggie Burger” to the right under “my articles”) and the most interesting thing a chef told me was that if a culinarian will just look to Japanese or Mediterranean cuisine for dish ideas, vegetarian items will naturally present themselves, because that’s just the way those two cuisines are.

And then let’s talk about salads. I was working on another article this week about menu engineering/pricing (more to say about that in another month), and I talked to a BBQ restaurant owner who learned something amazing about salads. The restaurant obviously is meat-centric, and so were the salads—mostly chicken variations (fried, grilled, smoked). What he didn’t realize for years was that some customers were getting mad. Why should they pay the price for one of these mammoths when they really just wanted a salad? So he redid the menu and took all the protein off the salads (and lowered the price), but mentioned on the menu the meats that were available for an extra charge. He quadrupled salad sales, and that without losing any sales of meat-topped salads.

It brings us to a little secret. Even those who aren’t vegetarians don’t always want a hunk of meat. Ask women. I didn’t think I was like that, but when I go to Costco on Saturday, which is really like a tapas-sampling event, I won’t take the little portions of sausage or coated chicken or ham. I just can’t imagine anything more unappetizing than a wad of meat in my mouth while I’m shopping.

Recent research by the Vegetarian Resource Group shows that 16% of those surveyed say more than half of their meals are vegetarian, and 48% look for vegetarian foods. So the audience for non-meat items is certainly larger than the vegetarian segment. That’s why it’s important for all foodservice operators to take a second look at the menu and see to it that everyone’s interests are being served.

Tell me what you think.

Jody

My Recollections of Charlie Trotter

Before the doors close at Charlie Trotter’s in August and the famed chef heads off to travel the world, attend graduate school and embark upon new endeavors, I thought I’d share my memories and encounters, as I’m sure many people will do.

I first heard of this Zeus-like figure at the International Association of Culinary Professionals conference 10 years ago after I had just become editor of Produce Concepts magazine. I didn’t know of him before that IACP workshop session, but it was clear that those around me weren’t just listening to him, they were absorbing him. If he would have advised that all tablecloths should be orange and next to every plate should be a pitch fork, there would have been unquestioning agreement, and so it would have been. I think the session topic was how to achieve greatness, and his stand-out to me was “be humble and serve well.”

The next time I saw him was at the 2003 grand opening of the Culinary Vegetable Institute in Milan, Ohio, founded by The Chef’s Garden. Charlie Trotter and Roxanne Klein were the stars at the festive event. The two had just co-authored “Raw” cookbook. Raw foods was a concept that was on the cusp of hot trend, maybe because Charlie was in on it. In my mind, Roxanne upstaged him at the event when it was made known that as she and her family stepped off the airplane, servers greeted them with raw food so they wouldn’t have to consume normal people food. I thought that was hilarious.

But the time and the topic were right in 2003. I decided to make raw food the cover story for one of my magazine issues with Charlie and Roxanne on the cover and the main sources for the article. Roxanne’s PR go-between person asked for some back issues of the magazine before agreeing to cooperate. Horrors, she read an article in which I had outlined some of the benefits of genetically modified (GMO) fruits and vegetables. Roxanne had a little activist outburst. No way would she have anything to do with a magazine that had something good to say about GMOs. She refused any involvement, and by association, so did Charlie.

But my final encounter with Charlie put me back in balance. I took a magazine-related trip to Chicago and contacted his PR person who insisted on treating me to lunch at Charlie Trotter's seated at “the chef’s table” in the kitchen with a few other guests. Awesome. The kitchen workers were respectful, professional and provided impeccable service. The dainty dishes were delicious for sure. Charlie stopped by to chat with us and was very endearing and humble. This last encounter was the perfect experience of all that was Charlie Trotter.  

I wish him the very best as he closes his doors in August after 25 years. I’m sure he will be tremendous at whatever is next on his plate.

Tell me what you think.

Jody